C is for Corsica
After two trips with just the original four FWTB members, we decided to open up our C trip to close friends. So, after months of anticipation, fourteen adults and two children touched down on the sun-kissed island of Corsica, ready for a week of adventure, relaxation, and indulgence.
Weather. Our trip took place in the second week of June, which turned out to be the best time to visit. The high temperature each day was in the 80s, and the evenings were comfortably cool. Other than a faint haze from the forest fires in Canada, the skies were clear and sunny. June is shoulder season for Corsica, so we were able to avoid the bustling summer crowds.
Accommodations. With a large group, we often stay in hotels so we have plenty of room and don’t have to worry about cleaning up. However, after we found this villa, we knew it would be the perfect home base for us. In addition to daily housekeeping, our concierge brought us daily croissants, pain au chocolates, baguettes, and other baked goods every morning. The villa was spacious and a 12-15 minute walk from one of the best beaches in Corsica (Palombaggia), although we mostly opted for the convenience of our stunning infinity pool instead. The villa’s one drawback was the lack of restaurants within walking distance so a rental car or car service is a necessity.
Getting Around. Speaking of getting around, we had one rental car for small, spontaneous trips and grocery store runs. (We loved this gem of an organic grocery store, which had a solid selection of fresh produce, cheeses, charcuterie meats, and wine.) Because Corsica is mostly mountains, expect a lot of winding roads, some of which are only one car width and require collaborative and patient maneuvering among motorists. If that it too daunting for you, we used Taxi Porto Vecchio for most of our group transportation. Their cars were clean and luxurious, and the dispatch and drivers were professional, punctual, and flexible.
Making Reservations. Because 25%+ of Corsica’s economy is tourism based and highly seasonal, we could not make reservations for some restaurants and activities until late April or early May. Even then, email correspondence was often lacking. The most effective communication with vendors was through Whatsapp, with help from Google Translate, since many Corsicans can’t (or choose not to) speak English :)
Fast Facts. Here are five things you should know about Corsica before visiting:
Because of Corsica’s proximity to Sardinia, expect to encounter many Italian speakers, including vendors, shop owners, and tour operators.
There are pesky mosquitoes throughout the island so consider purchasing repellant from one of the many pharmacies, demarked by distinctive green crosses.
Speaking of pharmacies, we recommend purchasing sunblock in Corsica. Not only is it cheaper, but sunblock in Europe is more effective than in the U.S. due to different regulatory standards.
In northern Corsica we encountered jellyfish in the ocean. They were highly visible and avoidable, but their sting is quite painful so beware.
There are wild cows and pigs that roam the island. We were lucky enough to encounter wild cows on Plage de Saleccia and pigs along hikes near Bavella.
Our Itinerary. Here is our detailed itinerary of our week in Corsica!
Day 0 - Arrival
With the gang flying in and jetlagged, we planned to have a private chef cook dinner for us at our villa. We used takeachef.com to book Chef Ylenia Parente, who lives in Sardinia and was a 2024 handmade pasta champion. While the whole meal was delicious, I’m still dreaming about the gnocchi, which was perfectly buttery and rich.
Day 1 - Day Trip to Bonifacio
Bonifacio is a one of the most picturesque towns in Corsica, known for its dramatic location on limestone cliffs. We started the day with the Campu Rumanilu hike, which provided stunning views of the town and ocean. The town itself is quite small, and only requires an hour or two to explore.
In the afternoon, some of us opted for a spa day at the Version Maquis, while others played a round of golf at Golf de Sperone. The back nine holes, with their ocean backdrops, were some of the most stunning we’ve ever played. Although there is a taxi stand near the marina, we never saw any taxis there(!) so make sure to arrange for transportation in advance.
We ended the day with dinner at Finestra, which just recently earned a Michelin star. The food was inventive, tasty, and beautifully presented. The restaurant’s interior design was inspired by the hull of a ship, and provides a view of the town’s marina.
Day 2 - Hike Cavu Loop and Visit Plage de Palombaggia
Today was a free day at the villa so travelers got to pick their own adventure. A small group went to hike Cavu Loop, a 7.6 mile trail with 1,200 ft of elevation gain. This stunning hike from Sainte-Lucie-de-Porto-Vecchio leads you to discover the Cavo valley. Along the way you will have beautiful views of the Zonza massif. This loop circuit runs along the river and offers opportunities for swimming in large clear water basins.
The rest of the group decided to visit the beach near our villa. Tucked along the southeastern coast of Corsica, Plage de Palombaggia has powdery white sand and clear turquoise water. It is consistently ranked among the most beautiful in Europe, and just a short walk from our villa. There are a few beachfront cafes and you can rent chairs and umbrellas if you didn’t bring your own.
We also walked to Plage de Tamaricciu, which is distinguished by its large, smooth rocks that sit half-submerged in crystal clear water. It’s slightly less crowded than Palombaggia, which was quite populated despite it being the shoulder season.
For dinner, we went to Terramea, which boasts a stunning view of Porto-Vecchio and its surrounding mountains. This was our favorite dinner out of the trip, and though we were sharing plates, we ended up placing multiple orders of the best dishes. Standouts included the roasted chicken and the truffle fettuccini. We also ordered one (or two) of every dessert, with the chocolate “bomb” and the profiteroles.
Day 3 - Canyoning in Pulischellu
Pulischellu Canyon is like stepping into a real-life adventure playground—where emerald pools, cascading waterfalls, natural slides, and jumps await.
We booked a guided adventure with Corse Montagne, led by Carlos (Carlito) Ascensao. The canyon is advertised as being ideal for beginners, and suitable for children 7+ years old. Each slide / jump is technically “skippable” but sometimes skipping a slide really means you’ll be lowered down slowly on a rope :)
The tour started with getting everyone suited in a harness, wetsuit, and helmet. Then we hiked about 20-30 minutes to the start, which included some slight “via ferrata” type obstacles. At the top, we were met with a dreamy waterfall and emerald pool. We swam for 10-15 minutes, taking in the lush scenery and crystal clear water.
Then, the real adventure began! We descended approximately 12 slides and jumps. Each one was unique, so we didn’t know what to expect as Carlos launched us (usually headfirst) into the current. It was one of the most adrenaline-filled, thrilling and FUN travel adventures we’ve ever done! And Carlos will forever be regaled as a certified bad*ss.
The entire descent took about three hours (it would probably take a smaller group less time), and the last slide can only be described as EPIC. We ended in another beautiful emerald pool, which was about a five minute walk from our starting point.
We had a GoPro to document our adventures, but we weren’t allowed to bring phones or our drone (which was for the best because they would’ve been destroyed).
Day 4 - Wine Tasting
Today was another free day at the villa, so we decided to go wine tasting at Clos Canarelli, which was recommended by a sommelier friend. Nestled between Figari and Bonifacio, this estate is renowned for its dedication to authenticity and respect for the Corsican terroir, producing wines that radiate purity of fruit, mineral clarity, and perfumed aromatics - the hallmarks of the island’s best bottles. The wine uses native grapes like Niellucciu, Sciaccarellu, and Vermentinu, with reds echoing earthy, meaty complexity and whites shimmering with freshness and subtle minerality.
At night, we dined at the only two Michelin star restaurant on the island, Casadelmar. We arrived just in time for the sunset, and enjoyed a bottle of champagne and lite bites while taking in the stunning panoramic views. While the menu was inventive and showcased local ingredients, the meal fell short of expectations. The seafood-heavy courses were a bit too “fishy”, lacking subtlety and balance. Dessert included an assortment of five different full-sized concoctions, which we passed around like a manual Lazy Susan so everyone could try a bit of each. Each plate was a visual delight, but only one was as satisfying on our taste buds as our eyes. In the end, the view was the highlight of the evening, and we left wishing the menu had matched the beauty of the surroundings.
Day 5 - Boat Day
Setting off from Plage de Piantarella, our boat day in Corsica was nothing short of spectacular. We rented the Kymera 43 from Nautic Aventures in Bonifacio. While we normally prefer catamarans, we decided to rent a speed boat, which allows us to cover an impressive itinerary in just one day. It was also spacious enough to comfortably fit all sixteen travelers.
Cruising past the dramatic cliffs of Bonifacio, with their sheer limestone faces plunging into the turquoise sea, was a breathtaking start that set the tone for the adventure ahead. We anchored for our first swimming stop in refreshing clear waters with friendly fish.
Next, we sailed to the Lavezzi Islands, a stunning archipelago of granite islets scattered like jewels across the water. The crystal-clear bays invited us to swim and snorkel, and the natural beauty here was truly unspoiled.
From there, we crossed over to La Maddalena in Sardinia for lunch, enjoying a lively atmosphere and delicious local flavors that perfectly complemented the day’s maritime journey. The Kymera’s speed made this cross-border hop effortless, giving us more time to savor each destination without feeling rushed.
Our skippers were professional and friendly, expertly navigating the waters, while ensuring we had a fantastic time. The only downside was unexpected extra charges from Nautic Aventures, which added up more than we anticipated. Despite the billing hiccups, this boat day was the perfect final chapter to our Corsican adventure - combining stunning scenery, excellent company, and a sense of freedom on the open sea that only a day like this can provide.
For our last night in Corsica, we hired another private chef, Christophe Willemin, who was recommended by the villa host. Christophe does not speak English, so it would be helpful to have at least one person conversational in French. The menu consisted of a caprese salad, scorpionfish, vegetarian pasta, and a chocolate mousse. The preparation of the fish was fascinating, and the vegetarian pasta was a favorite.
Day 6 - Departure
Departure day from Corsica was heavy with emotion, as we said our goodbyes and started to contemplate post-Corsica life without daily fresh bread and pastry deliveries. On the way to the airport we stopped at a beach café, and Bonifacio, for one last meal and gelato.
The airport was noticeably crowded, so I highly recommend arriving early to avoid any last-minute stress. Before heading through security, there’s a bustling café and a pleasant outdoor area where you can grab a bite and soak in the atmosphere.
